Hartwell House & Spa review: spectacular Buckinghamshire hotel makes a wonderful luxury escape

Feeling light and refreshed after a sumptuous couple of hours in the spa, my wife and I wowed at the splendour of the stunning National Trust property that stood before us.

As we strolled down the hill through the equally impressive grounds surrounded by 90 acres of parkland and wildlife, a wave of anticipation took over as we were greeted by hotel porter Ben who, with our luggage in both hands, guided us through the hotel's grand north front entrance.

Hartwell House & Spa, part of the Historic House Hotels group, is a Grade I-listed country manor two miles west of Aylesbury in Buckinghamshire, with its most famous resident being Louis XVII, the exiled King of France who lived there for five years in the early 19th century.

With the clock just shy of noon, we had arrived early for our overnight stay, intending to make the most of the hotel's luxury spa facilities, tucked away in a separate building only a stone's throw from the main house.

Hartwell House is surrounded by 90 acres of parkland and wildlifeplaceholder image
Hartwell House is surrounded by 90 acres of parkland and wildlife | Historic House Hotels

Submerging ourselves in the relaxed atmosphere while enjoying several rotating stints in the pool and jacuzzi was the perfect start to the weekend, only breaking off for complimentary refreshments in the Club Lounge, where we sipped coffees on a small terrace overlooking a beautiful courtyard.

Although far from vigorous, this wave of activity had whetted the appetite for our pre-booked afternoon tea, which was held in one of Hartwell House's four magnificent drawing rooms, all supremely decked out with giant portraits and traditional artifacts, with each item staying true to the hotel's rich history.

The spa with pool and jacuzzi provides a relaxed atmosphereplaceholder image
The spa with pool and jacuzzi provides a relaxed atmosphere | Historic House Hotels

It was quite apt that I chose Earl Grey tea to accompany the stand of dainty treats that was presented in front of us, with crusts neatly cut off the sleek finger sandwiches of roast beef, smoked salmon and egg mayonnaise, while the addition of a smoked tomato and cheddar quiche was an unexpected treat.

For the sweet selections there was the obligatory scone, homemade and warm with both fruit and plain options, along with a Genoise sponge with raspberry jelly, a delicious honey bavarois, a white chocolate and coconut mousse and, last but not least, an indulgently rich Valrhona Aragunai chocolate cream with roasted hazelnut.

We were staying in one of the Royal Four Poster rooms, one of four situated in each corner of the main house along with 42 other uniquely decorated bedrooms and suites inside the hotel.

There are awe-inspiring views of the gardens from the hotelplaceholder image
There are awe-inspiring views of the gardens from the hotel | Nigel Harper

Spacious, romantic and with awe-inspiring views of the gardens and lake, it was the perfect setting for any occasion.

The centrepiece was the huge king-size four poster bed complemented by smart antique furniture and fine paintings, while other features included an en-suite bathroom and shower with Quercus Penhaligon toiletries, a hospitality tea tray with complimentary water and biscuits, a Nespresso coffee machine and flat screen satellite TV.

With no desire to leave such decadent surroundings and with our dinner reservation later in the evening, there was time for a nap to recharge the batteries, with the outdoor peace and tranquility where only the singing birds could be heard, aiding our brief slumber.

One of the Royal Four Poster Rooms, one of four in the main houseplaceholder image
One of the Royal Four Poster Rooms, one of four in the main house | Nigel Harper

After a leisurely spruce-up and with stomachs rumbling, the main event was calling as we ambled our way to the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail, where we perused the menu before being seated at an immaculate-looking table in the hotel's award-winning two AA rosette restaurant in The Soane Room.

With a bottle of white already on ice, we delicately made our way through three divine courses from the 'bill of fare', a seasonal menu of wholesome, flavoursome and imaginative dishes inspired by Executive Head Chef Daniel Richardson and his supremely talented team.

There's something that always draws me to seafood when it comes to fine dining, and after an exquisite starter of Oxfordshire beef tartare I was truly mesmerised by the flavours of the pan-fried sea bass main course, enhanced by the accompanying soft boulangere potatoes, pea puree, leeks and white wine sauce.

The succulent beef wellington dish enjoyed in The Soane Roomplaceholder image
The succulent beef wellington dish enjoyed in The Soane Room | Historic House Hotels

In contrast, my wife opted for the more succulent dish of fillet of beef wellington, which came with a celeriac and truffle puree, pickled mushroom, baby onion petals, a 'Foie Royale' sauce and creamed potato, shallot and chives. Neither of us could resist an additional side serving of thyme and rosemary potato rosti.

For dessert, despite the lure of a tempting cheese plate, we both decided to end on a sweet note with the totally moreish egg custard and brown sugar tart and silky smooth vanilla ice cream, which cleansed the palates into pure contentment.

Away from all things food it's worth noting that the hotel has two private dining rooms available for civil wedding ceremonies and receptions, while The Hartwell Rooms offer a sophisticated venue for business meetings and other functions. As a frequent visitor of UK hotels, I'd struggle to recommend anywhere smarter to mark your nuptials or spend a day at work.

One of Hartwell House's four drawing roomsplaceholder image
One of Hartwell House's four drawing rooms | Andreas von Einsie

With a two-hour-plus journey home the following morning, we opted for an earlier-than-usual check-out time, but not before enjoying the breakfast delights of the continental buffet and hot menu choices of a Hartwell English Breakfast and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, both of which were washed down with a couple of pick-me-up lattes.

Our liaison with Hartwell House had been all too brief, but through my appreciative eyes, relaxed pampered body and tantalised taste buds, I was there long enough to know that this spectacular Buckinghamshire hotel makes a wonderful luxury escape. Until next time!

TRAVEL FACTS

Bed and breakfast at Hartwell House is priced from £293 per room per night and includes use of the spa. For more information visit the hotel website.

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